Newtok, Alaska, is one of the first places to dramatically feel the effects of increasing global energy consumption, as temperature shifts, storm surges and a melting permafrost chip away at the infrastructure of a community of nearly 350 on the state’s central west coast.
During a window-rattling storm there Friday, July 3, I crossed paths with Stanley Tom, tribal administrator for the Newtok Traditional Council and the driver on finding funding to make the village's move to higher ground a reality.
Fifty mph winds, persistent rains and slapping waves on the broadening Ninglick River were keeping most of the Yupiit inside their modest wooden homes as rows of drying fish outside struggled to hang on. But I had made it to the TC office, looking for information on the (delayed) incoming flights for me and Anna York to board now that our reporting work had concluded for the week.
Stanley popped in, shook off, asked for confirmation on the day's top Alaskan news, the surprise resignation of Gov. Sarah Palin, and then said to me, “You know, nobody has ever documented a storm like this here before.”
This was a storm that had been raging all morning and into the early afternoon on these wetlands near Baird Inlet, battering the shoreline that has seen devastating erosion over the last 10-20 years, bringing residents to routinely describe the vast changes they have seen in the landscape (Return to this site soon for our full report on this aspect.).
So when Stanley made that observation, I heard it as a challenge to my journalistic duty. I pushed my way back to our rental housing on the eastern end, along the broken and now slick boards of the maze of wooden sidewalks that keep walkers and ATVers above the soggy ground.
I wrapped my video camera in its rain gear, outfitted with furry microphone wind cover, and mounted it to a carbon fiber tripod that I feared would not stand up well to the rigors of the crosswinds. I darted straight out to the one spot where I could reach a view of the coast without waders, fortunately only about 150 yards from the house.
A spry Alaskan malamute with one brown eye and one blue who had been following me for a few days as I moved about the village, appeared, just one of the hardy survivors unfazed by conditions in this treacherous part of the country. It was one thing to see a work dog out in the rain, but I did not expect when I came back near the closest row of houses that I would encounter two friendly residents of Newtok, curious what I was up to, and happy to endure the whipping winds to talk to me on camera!
With this short video, get a feel for the type of weather event that happens even in summer near the Arctic Circle, with more regularity now than ever—likely human-caused climatic chaos.
(Note to self: Next time carry a chamois!)

